Kwik Sew T-Shirt

I don’t have a pattern number. This is the t-shirt from “Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way”. Pattern pieces 1, 2, 3, and 4. Front, back. sleeves and neckline band. Neckline B. Crew Neck. Short Sleeve.

I’m making this for KSD as a first effort and using the black rayon that I have in my stash. It is supposed to match the black Ina Skirt from earlier this month.

Because I want to learn something, and make more than a generic store bought t-shirt imitation, I am making the size L with a graded increase from waist to hip of 4 inches. I am also adding a 2 in swayback adjustment, and a 1 in full bust adjustment.

I’ve never done this before, we’ll see how it goes. Will update with pictures of the pattern and shirt once I’m done.

Here are the million links I went through to figure out what I’m doing. Kinda sorta maybe.

Swayback:

http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-a-basic-swayback-adjustment/

https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/sew-alongs/16990652-kim-dress-sewalong-alterations-swayback-adjustment

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2017/10/swayback-alteration/

 

Full Bust Adjustment:

http://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/

http://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to-retrofit-an-fba-in-a-knit-t-shirt/

https://www.paprikapatterns.com/how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment-on-a-dartless-shirt/

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2012/08/fitting-t-shirt-fba/

Full Butt Adjustment:

https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/sew-alongs/16990628-kim-dress-sewalong-alterations-full-butt-adjustment-variation-1-only

FREE TSHIRT pattern if you sign up for the newsletter:

https://sbcc-patterns.myshopify.com/collections/tops-and-blouses/products/tonic-tee

Neckline from Book:

 

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Jersey Fabric Ideas

Add to your jersey stash here: https://knitwit.com.au/?s=50%25&post_type=product

FREE Cocoon Cardigan Pattern on Youtube
https://www.sewinlove.com.au/2014/04/01/cocoon-cardigan-free-sewing-pattern-tutorial/

Patterns for Pirates
http://www.patternsforpirates.com/cocoon-roundup/
Cocoon Cardigan with length, sleeve, collar and pocket options

V1540 cardigan
this would be great for that black rayon jersey fabric in the stash

 

 

Knot front dress
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/knotted-midi-dress-012018

Ruffle Dress
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/mini-ruffle-dress-032017

 

 

Jersey Skirt Ideas

Aventura Larsen Reversible Skirt
six panels
three or four inch waistband
elastic band at waist
seams on outside
one inch hem
black thread on white to dark  grey gradient fabric
it looks like there is only one waistband, and the two fabrics are joined at the bottom of the waistband for the reversible effect
25 in skirt length

 

Aventura Cadence Skirt
Four panels
wide elastic waistband (3 inches?)
Panels arranged in a chevron pattern, point at front and back
26 in skirt length

Aventura Piper Skirt
This looks like the Ina Skirt, but shorter. The design looks like the godets, but arranged front to back rather than side to side.
Waistband 2 in
Skirt length 20 in
The godet is like a half circle, circle part face up.
The part below the waistband is like an umbrella.

Prana Daphne Skirt
waistband 3 in
6 panels
triangular godets
skirt length 24 in
looks like no elastic at waist
seaming is on the outside as a fashion statement

Ex Officio Wanderlux Skirt
This is like the Ina Skirt but with a triangular godet. The apex of the triangle is on the left thigh.
There is a cute zip pocket at the right hip.
The waist looks like 3 in. and has an elastic.
Skirt length is 29 in.

Aventura Maeva Dress
Looks a lot like the French Terry dress on the patterns page.
Skirt is in two pieces, in a chevron pattern.
Looks better with a pattern fabric than one color.
dress length 38 in

 

 

 

Ina Skirt

Pattern available on Patternreview.com.

I can’t decide what size to get. I often have to grade between different sizes to get waist and hip fitting properly.

SWD

Waist: 33
Hip: 41.5
Length: 40 to floor 35 ankle 28 in below knee

SIZE: XL

KSD

Waist: 34.5
Hip: 48.5
Length: 35 ankle 27 below knee

FINAL CHANGES FOR KSD AFTER TRYING ON:

GARMENT WAIST SIZE: XL – 2 in
GARMENT HIP SIZE: 3XL
GARMENT LENGTH: XL – 7 in for ankle, XL – 12 in (?) for below knee

FINISHED SKIRT FOR KSD:

NOTE1: With this high of a discrepancy between waist and hip, an elastic is probably necessary. Otherwise you get all these little pleats.

NOTE2: Pattern runs big. Next time, I would not make a 3X, I would make a 2X for KSD.

NOTE3: Where the pattern says “shorten here”, I cut 7 inches. You can see from the picture that it is still a maxi skirt on a 5’4″ tall woman. Further shortening requires shortening the godet, and I am still figuring out how to do that.

NOTE4: This is a VERY forgiving pattern, and such a classic design. In all black, it looks great. I could not tell the difference between the right and wrong side of the fabric, but in the light, it shows, and I don’t think it looks bad. Style, baby! 🙂

SHORTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR NEXT TIME:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?last=1&t=106282&all=8

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/86606/91#1889907

https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1903055

 

 

Tshirt Neckline Alterations

I was thinking of getting the Jalie 2805 tshirt pattern, but after careful consideration, have decided against it. The fit is a bit wrong.

I wanted the jewel neck to be a bit lower, the henley to be a bit higher. Other sewers said the sleeves are too tight, so I would have to heighten the sleeve, which means messing with the armscye.

If you look at the pattern pictures, there is a weird horizontal and vertical line by the bust. Experts at patternreview.com said this about it:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/106223/

The whole discussion is a fountain of information, check it out!

This pattern was recommended as a “learner” – a basic tshirt with three different ease levels:

https://butterick.mccall.com/b5215

When I get more advanced, here is something to look at:

https://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/the-split-cowl-collar-tutorial.html

https://sewguide.com/draft-necklines/

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/24084109

 

Scrundlewear Alterations

Why did I have to improvise a pattern piece when Scrundlewear is so awesome?

Well, Scrundlewear won’t fit someone curvy. I have measurements for someone with a size L waist but size 2X hips. So what to do? Also this person wanted full butt coverage and a belly button height waist.

Well, I’ll tell you what I did, because it was a huge success. Probably because 1) the pattern itself is awesome; and 2) because I’m super awesome too! 🙂 🙂 🙂

I used the pattern piece for the boyshort 2X, the leg band for boyshort 2X, BUT the waist band for boyshort L. That meant a LOT of easing and a million pins. There are tucks, yes there are, but it still is so comfy and looks so good.

ALSO, you know how the pattern has a higher waist for those who want a foldover waistband? I used that so the panty hits just below the belly button (and I mean a scant 1/4 inch below!)

I also wanted full coverage of the bum area. So I used the pattern style for the boyshort, BUT! – BUT!! – I redrew the lower butt cheek and extended it out another 1.5 inches.

I did NOT interfere with the liner at all (in the redrawing, I started above the liner notch), because I did not wish to bother with redrawing it or the front piece. You’ll understand better when you can see pictures.

I’ll post pictures of my new pattern when I have them in front of me so you can see how I amended the Scrundlewear pattern.

I had to post this right away because I’m so excited! I altered a pattern and it worked!! 🙂 Yay, me!