Just bought the Scrundlewear pattern from the One Stitch Upon a Time Etsy Store.

Two patterns are included: Briefs and Boyshorts. Each pattern has three options: Elastic, Fold Over Elastic, and Knit Waistband (No Elastic). Other reviewers have said that the knit waistband is the most comfortable.

One great thing about the pattern: all pattern pieces are on ONE PAGE. And the seller has set it up so you can print out the lines for just one size. Both the brief and boyshort pattern are on the same page.

Below is for size LARGE:


1/2 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for panty] based on 56 in wide fabric
1/4 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for waistband] based on 56 in wide fabric

CUT waistband: 4 in x 27.5 in = size of waistband

CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 20.75 in = size of leg opening for BRIEF


CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 19.75 in = size of leg opening for BOYSHORTS

Direction of stretch goes with the larger measurement

Seam allowance: ½ in (taken into account on pattern)


1 front (along fold)
1 back (along fold)
1 liner (along fold)


  1. Front piece, right side up.
  2. Back piece, right side down. Place exactly on top of front piece in step 1.
  3. Line up side seams. Pin.
  4. Put liner on top of wrong side of back piece. The side with the tapered cut (no flares!) Is the one that is at the bottom.
  5. Your stitch goes where the taper starts. You will stitch a ½ in seam through three layers.
  6. Once that is done, you can sew up the side seams on both sides.
  7. Take the pins out of the crotch and side seams.
  8. Now the liner kind of flops around. SUAT says you could zig zag stitch the end of that floppy side to neaten it if you want. Not sure why, it doesn’t get tucked under to finish or anything.
  9. With the crotch of the pany facing you, and the right side of the liner facing you, run a zig zag stitch from the floppy liner to the one side of the panty. You are just going through the one panty layer here, not two.
  10. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.


  1. Sew the ends of the waistband together. Zig zag stitch. Now it’s a big circle. Do the same for the leg bands.
  2. FOLD THE WAIST BAND IN HALF, wrong sides facing.
  3. Pin the waist band to the panty at the front back and two sides. Make sure the fourths are even. Then add more pins to secure. Make sure the pins are positioned so they do NOT have to be removed when sewing (parallel to the waistband, and about an inch inward).
  4. Small zig zag around. You are sewing through the one panty layer (front and back) and two waist band layers (because it is folded in half). This is NOT like with a skirt where you go through one side of the waistband and then do the other separately. Caution!
  5. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.
  6. Do same for leg bands.
  7. Finished!!



Kromski Harp Forte Loom Money Pit

Contacted TheSpinnery on Etsy. There is a 25% restocking fee on looms. Plus I have to pay return shipping on the loom box and the stand box.

TheSpinnery said they would waive that if Kromski took the loom back for being defective. Obviously, Kromski did not oblige, they said it was user error.

loom problems (my loom)

Can you see the space between the handle and the loom above? Stupid Kromski said I didn’t push it in enough. But you know what???? That is not possible, as the screw (as you see above!!) goes into the back piece in a PREDRILLED HOLE. All that is to be done is to align it using the “toothpick method” the Kromski woman discussed in the assembly instructions on Kromski’s own website.


Stupid Kromski said there is no predrilled hole, so I am mistaken.


They need to watch their own damn videos.

I hate this company, and am beginning to hate this loom. This is IMHO a company that does NOT stand behind its product.

TheSpinnery has been great, but the 25% restocking fee is A LOT IMHO. I understand that both me and her are SOL if Kromski refuses to take back their crappy loom.


Assembling the Kromski Harp Forte and Stand

Kromski sucks. With what other company can you spend five hundred dollars on a product and get

  1. NO instructions!!!!!! (for the loom)
  2. CRAP instructions!! (for the stand)
  3. No parts inventory, no part function explanation.
  4. Critical parts drilled wrong (I’m following up with TheSpinnery, the Etsy seller I purchased from, to get new parts or just return the loom).
  5. It took me a FULL DAY to assemble the loom and stand. I redid multiple steps multiple times. Today was like the curse of Kromski for me. Because of this, the joy of weaving is dying. DYING.


  1. The 24 in Kromski is huge. I should have gotten the 16 inch, if I got one at all. The one in the videos by Kromski for the “how to assemble” as well as the ones in the instruction manual are 16 inch. Seeing the product in front of me, 24 inch is too large, 16 inch is good enough for clothing, scarves, shawls, and would also be portable if you’re into that.
  2. The Cricket or SampleIt would have been easier to warp and SO MUCH MORE FUN to use. The panels would have to be sewn together if you want to make fabric with that, though. BUT those can be used in your lap while watching television.  Great for those of us who don’t want to sit in the corner by ourselves and weave, and want to use it to be a bit social and still get stuff done.
  3. Based on my personal experience, I do not recommend Kromski. The loom is rickety and poorly made, not attractive, and really a big ugly eyesore that will sit in your home forever and ever taking up space. A LOT of space. It is NOT feasible to fold the weaving away or store it in a corner when not in use. When people say the loom is portable, DO NOT expect that functionality. Also, the stand is so sucky that it does not adjust the way it is supposed to, and nothing tightens – the feet still move around. It’s just not STABLE.
  4. Sorry to offend any Kromski fans. This is just one opinion from a very VERY frustrated person who has spent ALL !??! DAY assembling one loom and stand.
  5. If you have to give up knitting and crochet because of joint pain, weaving might not be for you. The motion (especially for the large 24 inch loom I purchased) to move the shuttle back and forth is painful for the arms (I’ve had surgery on my shoulder). I couldn’t imagine using this for a longer period of time. Take a class or something before you just jump in and buy a loom like I did. Learn from my mistake.
  6. Again, this is just a review based on my opinion and personal circumstances. YMMV.

Welcome Home, Krominski Harp 24″

Found a great holiday sale on etsy, and bought the Krominski Harp 24 inch with stand.

It’s more of a commitment than I initially wanted, but for my purposes (no travel, making pieces that can be turned into garments), it works 🙂

Bought a book (Japanese, of course) on making dresses, skirts and blouses from pieces make from a loom that size. Also looked at the lovely inspiration from fellow Ravelers and they seemed to be using a loom 24 in or larger if they didn’t want a floor loom.

And, since I’m a size large person, two panels made on the 24 in loom (or just a really long panel, I guess..) would be perfect for a garment in my size.

Looking forward to building my loom and starting work on it!

Couture Seams

1. Plain Seam

Pin fabric right sides together.

Sew 5/8 in straight seam.

Open seam (do not press yet) and sew 1/4 in straight seam on one side of the seam, and then again on the other side.

Press seam open.

Pink the edges.

Done and done.

2. Seam for delicate fabrics

5/8 in seam

stitch length 2.2

straight stitch

use size 11 needle in machine

then zig zag st length 1.4, st width 1.9

line up against the line of straight st you just did and do the zig zag st.

trim the fabric on the other side of the zig zag

press the fabric to the wrong side.

done and done.

3. french seams

put fabric wrong side together

you are st on the right side of your fabric

5/8 in seam allowance.

first sew 1/4 in straight seam.

size 90/14 needle in machine

st length 2.2

narrow seam to start with on the right side of your work.

then press the seam open.

fold the fabric so the wrong side is out.

at the folded edge, press again. the seam is right on the edge.

now sew the seam again, 3/8 in, straight st. this will enclose the previous seam.

press the seam to the back.

done and done.

4. Clean finished seam


right side down.

turn seam 1/4 in and stitch down with straight st. do with both sides.

then pin the right sides together.

sew a 3/8 in straight st seam.

press open.

done and done.