Free Mood Fabrics Patterns

Mood Fabrics has a really really terrific website with five star fabrics and – woot! – free sewing patterns. Lots of cosplay patterns, so if you’re into that, check it out.

Here’s some of the stuff I like:

The Gardenia Skirt

The Cuphea Shawl

DSC_0137b

Two Piece Prom Dress

(The skirt is also the same as an Indian Lehenga Choli pattern, a few links below for inspiration)

All of the above are from www. utsavfashion.com.

The prom dress skirt is basically a half circle skirt.

You can use Mood Fabric’s Circle Skirt Calculator if you want a 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or full circle skirt and need yardage calculations.

 

 

 

 

Scottevest Upcycle – Planning

How shall I do this?

  1. Check if my Scottevest cardigan has a seam in the back. If it does, okay. If not, leave it alone. Why mess with it if it ain’t broke?
  2. Start with the black burnout cardigan. Because it is my least favorite. Make that the test. If all goes well, branch out to the white burnout and the black solid jersey burnout. I guess?
  3. Try to take the pockets off the Scottevest. That would be best. Really work the seam ripper and binge watch something on Netflix meanwhile. Ten seasons of Friends should do it, right?
  4. I think the Rick Owens collar is smaller than the Scottevest one. Maybe half the size? Take that into account, and fix it later. Or maybe cut it in half and use the fabric for both sides of the front ties? That should make it about right? Neck to hem is about the same size as the right tie and left tie? I think that should work.
  5. Now, we think. What if we cut white and black burnouts into pieces, and swap them out? So the white burnout has a white collar and a black tie? Would that look nice? It looks like the ties are attached at the seams on either side.  Or should I be super fancy and use some other jersey fabric instead? It looks like the ties are six inches at max width, and taper to a point.
  6. The scottevest is the same length all the way around. The Rick owens is longer in the front, kind of a trapezoid shape (thanks, geometry!) and hits at the top hip. I think I’d want it at least mid butt for myself though.
  7. Okay, look at the chest area of the Rick Owens cardigan really closely. The sleeves are kind of flaring out, triangle style – is that called dolman sleeve? – IDK, it reminds me of a military general. At about the bust level, coming down from the collar bone, that’s where the top (or one part) of the tie is. The other part come from the underarm or so, closer to the back. It’s not just the one piece stretched out. Cool cool cool. How do I duplicate that? Remember that classic Butterick wraparound dress? 4970? 6015? Ah, the first is the “modern redo”, the second the original vintage. I got a picture below. See how the waist is? Does that look like the Rick Owens? It does to me. I wonder.. It would certainly fit better with jersey fabric than with whatever cotton Butterick used.. I’m not sure about using two lines of jersey like Rick Owens, that seems like too much work, and I have very little competence. But this seems like a great compromise.. attach the tie more towards the back. or just run it all the way around the dress, Japanese kimono style, maybe in a contrast fabric, and then create a triangle coming in under the arm, grading it to a point that can be tied without bulk. So it would be flattering, and fit like it has its own obi belt. Yes, I think that could work. Let me let this marinate in my mind a bit and see how it feels.
  8. Wait.. taking another look at the scottevest pocket.. they took the hem and curved it around to the side, leaving the bubble unattractively in the pocket. Ugh. It shouldn’t be so bad to undo then, right? Right??? .. So then if I undo the pocket, the hem should come down to a point like the Rick Owens cardigan, right?

B6015A

8. Friends who visit the blog, and advice or input would be super! Thanks!!

 

Upcycling Scottevest Cardigan

I purchased the Scottevest Lucille Long Cardigan (in black, white, and black solid jersey). Total overkill. The reviews are not accurate, it’s a horrible cardigan, very hot, with unusable pockets. It is droopy and unattractive and unreturnable.

Here’s what it looks like:

The Lucille

Image result for scottevest lucille

If you put stuff in the pockets (keys only..) the pockets droop to the knees.

Madeline Cardigan

And now I notice that nowhere is Scottevest advertising anyone actually USING its pockets. Or even putting their hands in the pockets. Or turning around so people can see the back of the cardigan. And BTW the hands are super thin so don’t think you can wear this cardigan over a sleeved shirt.

Anyway. I don’t want this expensive clothing paperweight taking up space in my closet. And now I sew! I can improve it!

But there are no margins to unpick the pockets without ruining the fabric, and if I just cut them off, then I will end up with a cropped cardigan. No dice.

SOOOO.. I found this and fell in love with it’s unbelievably expensive self. It’s so great. So great. So so great. I want it. Maybe I can make it?

SIZE & FIT INFORMATION
– Fits true to size, take your normal size
– Designed for a slightly loose fit, use the tie belt to cinch in at the waist
– Mid-weight, stretchy fabric
– Take the next size up if you wish to achieve a looser fit
– Model is 177cm/ 5’10” and is wearing an IT 40

– Dark-gray jersey
– Slips on
– 70% viscose, 15% cotton, 15% polyamide
– Hand wash
– Made in Italy

RICK OWENS Jersey cardigan $815
https://www.net-a-porter.com/us/en/product/1005025/rick_owens/jersey-cardigan

 

Kwik Sew Tshirt Alterations

The tshirt does not fit well. At all. The neckline is puckered and awkwardly stretched, the back is four inches higher than the front, the body is baggy, and all in all it is just very ugly.

So I need to fix this.

Step 1: Unpick the neckline.

Step 2: Even out the length of the front and the back.

Step 3: Redo the neckline. It’s already starting to stretch out. Follow this video:

 

Step 4: Find out how much longer I want it (including hem). Which is 8 inches. I don’t want to add it to the bottom, it looks sloppy. I don’t want lace, it’s too juvenile.

Option1: Cut off the shirt 2 inches below the chest. Then I will add a contrast panel. Follow this blog: https://mesewcrazy.com/2016/08/lengthen-t-shirt.html

VERDICT: No. I don’t want to undo everything I did. I will just go with:

Option2: Add the extra fabric at the bottom, at the hem. Cool thing I did: Cut out front, cut out back, and hem with fusible interfacing tape before sewing the two together. Then I’ll align the stripes at the bottom and work up from there. Sides get a half inch seam allowance. Top gets the same.

Step 5: Finish off the cuffs with the fusible interfacing tape.

Step 6: For the Anthropologie Couture Tshirt look: https://www.thelaststitch.com/2017/02/neckline-seam-with-decorative-ribbon/

 

Kwik Sew T-Shirt

I don’t have a pattern number. This is the t-shirt from “Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way”. Pattern pieces 1, 2, 3, and 4. Front, back. sleeves and neckline band. Neckline B. Crew Neck. Short Sleeve.

I’m making this for KSD as a first effort and using the black rayon that I have in my stash. It is supposed to match the black Ina Skirt from earlier this month.

Because I want to learn something, and make more than a generic store bought t-shirt imitation, I am making the size L with a graded increase from waist to hip of 4 inches. I am also adding a 2 in swayback adjustment, and a 1 in full bust adjustment.

I’ve never done this before, we’ll see how it goes. Will update with pictures of the pattern and shirt once I’m done.

Here are the million links I went through to figure out what I’m doing. Kinda sorta maybe.

Swayback:

http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-a-basic-swayback-adjustment/

https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/sew-alongs/16990652-kim-dress-sewalong-alterations-swayback-adjustment

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2017/10/swayback-alteration/

 

Full Bust Adjustment:

http://curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/

http://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to-retrofit-an-fba-in-a-knit-t-shirt/

https://www.paprikapatterns.com/how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment-on-a-dartless-shirt/

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2012/08/fitting-t-shirt-fba/

Full Butt Adjustment:

https://byhandlondon.com/blogs/sew-alongs/16990628-kim-dress-sewalong-alterations-full-butt-adjustment-variation-1-only

FREE TSHIRT pattern if you sign up for the newsletter:

https://sbcc-patterns.myshopify.com/collections/tops-and-blouses/products/tonic-tee

Neckline from Book:

20180329_140929

20180329_140933

 

Jersey Fabric Ideas

Add to your jersey stash here: https://knitwit.com.au/?s=50%25&post_type=product

FREE Cocoon Cardigan Pattern on Youtube
https://www.sewinlove.com.au/2014/04/01/cocoon-cardigan-free-sewing-pattern-tutorial/

Cocoon-shawl-cardigan-free-sewing-pattern-and-tutorial-video

Patterns for Pirates
http://www.patternsforpirates.com/cocoon-roundup/
Cocoon Cardigan with length, sleeve, collar and pocket options

cocoon-pockets

V1540 cardigan
this would be great for that black rayon jersey fabric in the stash

 

 

Knot front dress
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/knotted-midi-dress-012018

770x967_bs_2018_01_101_heft_large

Ruffle Dress
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/mini-ruffle-dress-032017

117a-032017-b_large

 

 

Jersey Skirt Ideas

Aventura Larsen Reversible Skirt
six panels
three or four inch waistband
elastic band at waist
seams on outside
one inch hem
black thread on white to dark  grey gradient fabric
it looks like there is only one waistband, and the two fabrics are joined at the bottom of the waistband for the reversible effect
25 in skirt length

MAIN

 

Aventura Cadence Skirt
Four panels
wide elastic waistband (3 inches?)
Panels arranged in a chevron pattern, point at front and back
26 in skirt length
MAIN

Aventura Piper Skirt
This looks like the Ina Skirt, but shorter. The design looks like the godets, but arranged front to back rather than side to side.
Waistband 2 in
Skirt length 20 in
The godet is like a half circle, circle part face up.
The part below the waistband is like an umbrella.
PT03

Prana Daphne Skirt
waistband 3 in
6 panels
triangular godets
skirt length 24 in
looks like no elastic at waist
seaming is on the outside as a fashion statement

PT02

Ex Officio Wanderlux Skirt
This is like the Ina Skirt but with a triangular godet. The apex of the triangle is on the left thigh.
There is a cute zip pocket at the right hip.
The waist looks like 3 in. and has an elastic.
Skirt length is 29 in.

MAIN

PT02

Aventura Maeva Dress
Looks a lot like the French Terry dress on the patterns page.
Skirt is in two pieces, in a chevron pattern.
Looks better with a pattern fabric than one color.
dress length 38 in

MAIN

PT02

 

 

 

Ina Skirt

Pattern available on Patternreview.com.

I can’t decide what size to get. I often have to grade between different sizes to get waist and hip fitting properly.

SWD

Waist: 33
Hip: 41.5
Length: 40 to floor 35 ankle 28 in below knee

SIZE: XL

KSD

Waist: 34.5
Hip: 48.5
Length: 35 ankle 27 below knee

FINAL CHANGES FOR KSD AFTER TRYING ON:

GARMENT WAIST SIZE: XL – 2 in
GARMENT HIP SIZE: 3XL
GARMENT LENGTH: XL – 7 in for ankle, XL – 12 in (?) for below knee

FINISHED SKIRT FOR KSD:

20180311_172332

NOTE1: With this high of a discrepancy between waist and hip, an elastic is probably necessary. Otherwise you get all these little pleats.

NOTE2: Pattern runs big. Next time, I would not make a 3X, I would make a 2X for KSD.

NOTE3: Where the pattern says “shorten here”, I cut 7 inches. You can see from the picture that it is still a maxi skirt on a 5’4″ tall woman. Further shortening requires shortening the godet, and I am still figuring out how to do that.

NOTE4: This is a VERY forgiving pattern, and such a classic design. In all black, it looks great. I could not tell the difference between the right and wrong side of the fabric, but in the light, it shows, and I don’t think it looks bad. Style, baby! 🙂

SHORTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR NEXT TIME:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?last=1&t=106282&all=8

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/86606/91#1889907

https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1903055

 

 

Tshirt Neckline Alterations

I was thinking of getting the Jalie 2805 tshirt pattern, but after careful consideration, have decided against it. The fit is a bit wrong.

I wanted the jewel neck to be a bit lower, the henley to be a bit higher. Other sewers said the sleeves are too tight, so I would have to heighten the sleeve, which means messing with the armscye.

If you look at the pattern pictures, there is a weird horizontal and vertical line by the bust. Experts at patternreview.com said this about it:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/106223/

The whole discussion is a fountain of information, check it out!

This pattern was recommended as a “learner” – a basic tshirt with three different ease levels:

https://butterick.mccall.com/b5215

When I get more advanced, here is something to look at:

https://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/the-split-cowl-collar-tutorial.html

https://sewguide.com/draft-necklines/

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/24084109

 

Scrundlewear Alterations

Why did I have to improvise a pattern piece when Scrundlewear is so awesome?

Well, Scrundlewear won’t fit someone curvy. I have measurements for someone with a size L waist but size 2X hips. So what to do? Also this person wanted full butt coverage and a belly button height waist.

Well, I’ll tell you what I did, because it was a huge success. Probably because 1) the pattern itself is awesome; and 2) because I’m super awesome too! 🙂 🙂 🙂

I used the pattern piece for the boyshort 2X, the leg band for boyshort 2X, BUT the waist band for boyshort L. That meant a LOT of easing and a million pins. There are tucks, yes there are, but it still is so comfy and looks so good.

ALSO, you know how the pattern has a higher waist for those who want a foldover waistband? I used that so the panty hits just below the belly button (and I mean a scant 1/4 inch below!)

I also wanted full coverage of the bum area. So I used the pattern style for the boyshort, BUT! – BUT!! – I redrew the lower butt cheek and extended it out another 1.5 inches.

I did NOT interfere with the liner at all (in the redrawing, I started above the liner notch), because I did not wish to bother with redrawing it or the front piece. You’ll understand better when you can see pictures.

I’ll post pictures of my new pattern when I have them in front of me so you can see how I amended the Scrundlewear pattern.

I had to post this right away because I’m so excited! I altered a pattern and it worked!! 🙂 Yay, me!

Scrundlewear FINISHED!!

This is really not a beginner pattern. BUT it is an excellent project for a beginner to learn on. It took me a few days of pattern review, youtube watching, and general confusion, but here is my finished brief::

20180227_123020

Looks great, right! And the fit is very TTS. I thought the pattern looked super bulky and large, but the fit isn’t like that at all.

FYI the brief comes to about two inches below the belly button.

The leg bands still show a LITTLE bit of cheek.

All in all, love love love these, can’t wait to make more! 🙂

And FYI, the material is basically your average tshirt material, so you can use up your old shirts instead of throwing them out or donating them.

The waistband can even be put together from two shorter pieces without feeling uncomfortable. FYI.

I would start this by making a full size pattern piece, one that does not require a fold. Personally I found it easier to cut the fabric out that way. YMMV.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, and I will try to help you out. I’m just a beginner, though, so who knows how helpful I will be. I’ll try, though.

This pattern is amazing, if you are on the fence, just buy it. The brief pattern IMHO fits like a boyshort.

Also do the topstitching it makes a difference to the finished look.

 

Scrundlewear

Just bought the Scrundlewear pattern from the One Stitch Upon a Time Etsy Store.

Two patterns are included: Briefs and Boyshorts. Each pattern has three options: Elastic, Fold Over Elastic, and Knit Waistband (No Elastic). Other reviewers have said that the knit waistband is the most comfortable.

One great thing about the pattern: all pattern pieces are on ONE PAGE. And the seller has set it up so you can print out the lines for just one size. Both the brief and boyshort pattern are on the same page.

Below is for size LARGE:

MATERIALS:

1/2 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for panty] based on 56 in wide fabric
1/4 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for waistband] based on 56 in wide fabric

CUT waistband: 4 in x 27.5 in = size of waistband

CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 20.75 in = size of leg opening for BRIEF

OR

CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 19.75 in = size of leg opening for BOYSHORTS

Direction of stretch goes with the larger measurement

Seam allowance: ½ in (taken into account on pattern)

PIECES TO CUT OUT:

1 front (along fold)
1 back (along fold)
1 liner (along fold)

HOW TO ATTACH THE LINER

  1. Front piece, right side up.
  2. Back piece, right side down. Place exactly on top of front piece in step 1.
  3. Line up side seams. Pin.
  4. Put liner on top of wrong side of back piece. The side with the tapered cut (no flares!) Is the one that is at the bottom.
  5. Your stitch goes where the taper starts. You will stitch a ½ in seam through three layers.
  6. Once that is done, you can sew up the side seams on both sides.
  7. Take the pins out of the crotch and side seams.
  8. Now the liner kind of flops around. SUAT says you could zig zag stitch the end of that floppy side to neaten it if you want. Not sure why, it doesn’t get tucked under to finish or anything.
  9. With the crotch of the pany facing you, and the right side of the liner facing you, run a zig zag stitch from the floppy liner to the one side of the panty. You are just going through the one panty layer here, not two.
  10. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.

WAIST AND LEG BANDS

  1. Sew the ends of the waistband together. Zig zag stitch. Now it’s a big circle. Do the same for the leg bands.
  2. FOLD THE WAIST BAND IN HALF, wrong sides facing.
  3. Pin the waist band to the panty at the front back and two sides. Make sure the fourths are even. Then add more pins to secure. Make sure the pins are positioned so they do NOT have to be removed when sewing (parallel to the waistband, and about an inch inward).
  4. Small zig zag around. You are sewing through the one panty layer (front and back) and two waist band layers (because it is folded in half). This is NOT like with a skirt where you go through one side of the waistband and then do the other separately. Caution!
  5. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.
  6. Do same for leg bands.
  7. Finished!!