Cross Body Purse – Materials

Craftsy Class: The Cross-Body Bag: Sewing With Waxed Canvas
with Mariah McPherson
Cost: $9.99

COUPON CODE FOR 25% OFF THE CLASS HERE.
The post went up early July, but as of today’s date (August 18, 2017), the coupon code still works.

OFFICIAL MATERIALS LIST:

● Fabric for outer bag (main fabric): 3⁄8 yard of 54″-wide or wider fabric, or 1⁄2 yard of
45″-wide fabric. Recommended fabrics for bag include heavyweight fabric such as
waxed canvas, denim, or duck canvas (suggested: 10-12 oz weight), or midweight
quilting cottons. If using quilting cotton, interface all Outer Bag pieces with fusible fleece.
● Fabric for lining: 1⁄4 yard 45″- or 54″-wide medium-weight fabric such as twill, lightweight
denim, poplin, or quilting cotton. If using quilting cotton, or if you want a bag with more
structure and less slouch, interface all Lining pieces with fusible interfacing.
● Fabric for pocket lining: One fat quarter (18″ x 22″) of quilting cotton or other light- to
medium-weight fabric.
● Scrap of interfacing to support the metal snap
● One 7″ closed-end metal zipper (or substitute a medium-weight nylon handbag zipper
with an extra-long pull)
● One 18 mm magnetic snap
● Two 1″ metal D-rings
● Two 1″ metal swivel clips (also called swivel hooks or push-gate hooks)
● One 1″ metal tri-glide slider (also called slides or sliders)
● 11⁄2 yards of 1″-wide webbing for straps (shown: lightweight cotton webbing)
● Thread colors to match main fabric, lining fabric, and webbing

MY IMPROVISED MATERIALS LIST:

Bag Outer Fabric – 1 yard

Outer

Bag Inner Fabric AND Pocket Liner Fabric – 1 yard

Inner

Finished Coffee/Camel Shoulder Strap

Shoulder

Water Soluble Fabric Marker
Singer Denim Needle Size 100/16, style 2026

By purchasing the finished shoulder strap, I save around $70 on supplies!

NOTE: In my stash, I had the 3/4 in magnetic snaps by Dritz and the 7 in zipper from Wish.com (which costs WAY less than Amazon on almost everything [I got 10 of the 7 in zippers for $2 including shipping], even though it’s the same stuff – the only difference is it takes like a month to come over from China, so it’s worth stocking up).

 

 

Charm Square Quilt – FINISHED

Finished my charm square quilt! Amazing! Sized for a baby, colors for an adult! This works well as a lap blanket for an adult, or a present for someone in a wheelchair.

This is the perfect size for a beginner’s quilt. Honestly, though, it’s not the most useful size for an adult – you’d want it to be at least 45 x 60, or 60 x 60 to be useful as a television throw.

I like the look of the quilt without the ugly hand ties the best. Quilters say that they use that technique mostly for charity quilting, and I can see why. It can be done quickly and cheaply, and it is functionally a good option. But, let’s be honest, it’s not a style most of us would want in our homes.

I’m guessing that Gibson did not add a machine quilting option because that lets her sell three separate “Learn to Sew” classes on Craftsy. The second class is a slightly bigger quilt, I think 45 x 60, with a fluted edge and machine quilting, and the third quilt is the biggest quilt, with a (I’m guessing, the dimensions are not listed) a twin blanket sized quilt, and has a bound edge and machine quilting.

charm square quilt 1

charm square quilt 2

I’m not usually a fan of recommending classes I haven’t taken, but if you want a really thorough and well rated quilting class (that is 14 lessons long, instead of the usual 7), check out “Startup Library: Quilting” and use coupon code “S5R63K6” for 50% off the class (which I think is good until either the end of August 2017 or until August 14, 2017, I don’t remember which). I confess I have not bought the class yet, because I am still debating between that class, Gibson’s other two classes, and the “Start Free Motion Quilting” class that is on sale today for $12.00 (instead of the usual $39.99). And I actually would prefer to learn Free Motion Quilting (“FMQ”).

NOW, I must say, do sign up for the FREE CRAFTSY CLASS (sponsored by the rotary tool maker Olfa) called “Piece, Patch, Quilt: Basic Quiltmaking Skills” by Gail Kessler. The instructor is fantastic, the skills thorough (but more geared for advanced beginner or intermediate quilters). I would start with the first Gibson class, the Baby Quilt class that I did, and then progress to the others. EVERY SKILL she teaches in her one class is in the Gibson class and the Startup Library class. The Gibson class and Startup Library class simply act as filters and keep the more advanced information out of their classes, which make it easier for a beginner or total newbie. But they do it as a cost, so YMMV.

A Shout Out to My Pins

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KYXID8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Initially, I had pins from my first Joann sewing class (I think they were Dritz?).

Then I bought a bunch of pins from the Internet (cheap Chinese tat that I thought was good).

Finally I invested in high quality French pins, and they were sharp, they were 2 in long and had glass heads that I could iron over, and they were AMAZING.

If you’re looking for pins, buy these. You won’t regret it, and they will last a lifetime.

I’m going to point out, I’m linking to Amazon because that is where I bought the pins from, but it is not an affiliate link, and I make no money whether you buy the pins or not.

 

 

 

Charm Square Quilt – Step 4

Turned edges (so no hand sewing!)
Machine quilting (none of those tacky hand ties).

How does this work?

Follow Gibson’s instructions for assembling the quilt:

ASSEMBLING THE QUILT:

  1. Cut batting into 45 in by 45 in square. DO NOT IRON. It is best to let it lay overnight to air out and get rid of wrinkles.
  2. Lay batting on the floor. Tape it down.
  3. Put the quilt backing on top of the batting, right side up. It should be a 45 in by 45 in size. If you need to iron it first, iron it first. Make it as flat and nice as possible. How good it looks now is how good it will look in the end.
  4. Put the pieced quilt top on top of the backing, RIGHT SIDE DOWN. It will be the smallest cloth piece. This is okay, you are going to align it later.
  5. NOW, mark off (with two pins on each side, like Gibson!) the opening of the quilt – a four square size in the middle of the side of the quilt.
  6. Pin off the perimeter of the quilt, with a pin every 3 to 5 inches.

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  1. You WILL want to backstitch a few stitches at each side of the quilt opening. Keep your machine in needle down position from here on out.
  2. Align sewing machine foot to valley of pinked charm square for a 3/8″ seam allowance. Stitch all the way around the perimeter of the quilt.
  3. When you are done, flip it inside out like a duvet cover. Make sure you are reaching between the pieced quilt top and the quilt back.
  4. Yay you! No need to add a binding, your quilt has one automatically because of this inside out trick. Use a knitting needle to poke out the corners so they look sharp.
  5. Pin the hole closed. Use your fingers. Don’t iron it, you’ll mess up the batting. (Lesson 4: Chapter 6: 21:55).
  6. Lesson 5 Chapter 1 picks up where the hole has been pinned shut. Gibson uses a pin every centimeter. Stitch length 3. Now you are topstitching the hole shut. 1/4 in seam allowance. You will do a backstitch at the beginning and end of the hole. Needle down option. Gibson uses a decorative color here.
  7. Remember to stick to the 1/4 in seam allowance. The inside seam allowance was 3/8 in and you want to catch those loose ends with the topstitching on the other side.
  8. Topstitch all the way around the perimeter of the quilt. (The needle down position is important for the corners).

NOW this is where I diverge from Gibson’s instructions. At this point she goes off on her tying the quilt tangent. I will proceed with machine quilting instructions from here on out.

  1. Stitch in the ditch. This means that you take your walking foot and basically go back and forth over each and every single block at the place where there are already seams. You topstitch ON TOP OF those existing seams.
  2. My batting can be quilted up to 25 cm apart. That is 9.8 inches. Each square is 5 in. So at this point, I am basically done with this quilt, and any other stitching I add is a cherry on the cake.

Changing from General Foot to Walking Foot

Okay. You need to use a walking foot in order to do quilting. This is because quilted fabric is thick, and a general foot will not go through the layers without messing up the machine.

Here are the instructions my singer came with:

Walking Foot Instructions

Here is a youtube video from Singer on how to do this (note this is not my machine):

 

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Okay, this is what is taken off. The above is what is used for general sewing.

In the middle is the general foot. There is a little pressed in tab in the back of the sewing machine, and the foot falls right off.

On the left is the thing that holds up the general foot. It unscrews. Use the screw on the right to unscrew the screw, and then the thing on the left just falls down.  [On a side note, the BH is the button holer lever – this is not used in the case of the walking foot].

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The huge white piece is the walking foot.

It has a little lever on the right which goes up and down. Make sure it goes above the needle bar when installing it. The needle bar is the what the yellow arrow below is pointing to. The little lever on the walking foot is pointed to by the orange arrow.

where is the needle bar

Done and done, it’s all installed! 🙂

Charm Square Quilt – Step 2

 

At the end of the previous step, you had nine strips of nine squares.

Now, snip away the extra thread at the top and bottom of each seam.

Then, iron! Lots of ironing. Or, to be accurate, “pressing” – vertical action, not horizontal.

Right side up.

Fold each seam back. Press each seam to set the seam.

Then press the fabric toward the darker fabric (you have to alternate each row, if you don’t have a black checkerboard pattern like I do).

Make sure there are no folds at the seam.

Lay everything out to make sure it looks nice.

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There ends Lesson 3 Chapter 4.