Changing from General Foot to Walking Foot

Okay. You need to use a walking foot in order to do quilting. This is because quilted fabric is thick, and a general foot will not go through the layers without messing up the machine.

Here are the instructions my singer came with:

Walking Foot Instructions

Here is a youtube video from Singer on how to do this (note this is not my machine):

 

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Okay, this is what is taken off. The above is what is used for general sewing.

In the middle is the general foot. There is a little pressed in tab in the back of the sewing machine, and the foot falls right off.

On the left is the thing that holds up the general foot. It unscrews. Use the screw on the right to unscrew the screw, and then the thing on the left just falls down.  [On a side note, the BH is the button holer lever – this is not used in the case of the walking foot].

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The huge white piece is the walking foot.

It has a little lever on the right which goes up and down. Make sure it goes above the needle bar when installing it. The needle bar is the what the yellow arrow below is pointing to. The little lever on the walking foot is pointed to by the orange arrow.

where is the needle bar

Done and done, it’s all installed! 🙂

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Charm Square Quilt – Step 2

 

At the end of the previous step, you had nine strips of nine squares.

Now, snip away the extra thread at the top and bottom of each seam.

Then, iron! Lots of ironing. Or, to be accurate, “pressing” – vertical action, not horizontal.

Right side up.

Fold each seam back. Press each seam to set the seam.

Then press the fabric toward the darker fabric (you have to alternate each row, if you don’t have a black checkerboard pattern like I do).

Make sure there are no folds at the seam.

Lay everything out to make sure it looks nice.

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There ends Lesson 3 Chapter 4.

 

Charm Square Quilt – Step 1

Lay out the 81 squares in a 9×9 pattern that you like.

I covered my bed with the design and rearranged until I was happy.  Somehow this took over an hour.

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Then I picked up each row, starting at the bottom, and worked my way to the right. I had nine piles of nine squares.

The first pile is the bottom row in the picture, left to right. I stuck that in a book. Then I flipped a page, and put the second row into the book. I continued until all nine rows were in the book. The three extra squares are in the end of the book so that they don’t get lost.

There ends Lesson 2, Preparing the Quilt Top – Labeling the Rows.

Charm Square Quilt

This is my first quilting project. I am following along with Amy Gibson’s “Learn to Quilt: Charming Baby Quilt” Craftsy Class. I’ve already watched through the whole class once, now I’m watching it again while sewing along.

Finished size of quilt is 40.5 in x 40.5 in

MATERIALS:

1. Quilting cotton, 1 1/4 yards, not prewashed

Kona cotton, 2 yards

2. Precut squares, aka 5 inch charm squares, quantity 81, not prewashed

Black squares
Design squares

3. Low loft cotton batting, make sure batting specifies quilting distance as 10 inches

4. Cotton thread, 50 weight

I am using black thread.

5. For the ties, pearl cotton, embroidery floss, or yarn

I am a knitter, so I have a bunch of yarn.

I also have embroidery floss from many failed attempts at embroidery.

6. Patchwork foot is basically a foot with an attached seam guide for making 1/4 inch seams. It may be replaced by a normal sewing foot with a separate magnetic seam guide.

I don’t know if I have a patchwork foot; honestly, I can’t identify it if I do have it. But I have a general foot, and a magnetic seam guide, so I’m just going to go with that.

QUICK SUMMARY OF IMPORTANT NOTES:

PREPARING THE QUILT TOP:

  1. Stitch length should be 2.0.
  2. Stitch allowance is 1/4 in.
  3. You should have 81 charm squares. Lay them out in a 9 x 9 pattern.
  4. Do not backstitch to secure the stitches (neither at the beginning, nor at the end).
  5. Finish up with nine strips of nine squares apiece.

PIECING THE QUILT TOP:

  1. Fold seam toward darker colored fabric. [This works because Gibson has her squares in a checkerboard pattern; if you don’t, just alternate row to row].
  2. When joining two rows, align the pressed back seams in an alternating way, so no huge bumps are created. With this quilt, it works basically automatically since the black squares are every other square.
  3. When the rows are joined up, from the back you can see the seams are pressed alternatively.

ASSEMBLING THE QUILT:

  1. Turned edge finish – batting first.
  2. Batting on bottom. Taped down. Quilt backing on top of it, right side up. Quilt top on top of the backing, right side down.
  3. How do you raise the height of the presser foot??
  4. Align sewing machine foot to valley of pinked charm square for a 3/8″ seam allowance.
  5. Flip it inside out like a duvet cover.

TYING THE QUILT:

  1. Topstitching STARTS at the opening of the quilt and then goes all the way around the whole entire quilt.

ADDING FINISHING TOUCHES:

  1. Right sides together. You are sewing a pillowcase, then flipping inside out and finishing.
  2. Tuck in the last remaining open side. (Flip inside the pillowcase like a messed up cereal box).
  3. Iron to create crease.
  4. Hand sew the label onto the quilt.
  5. Blind stitch. Start with knot at corner.
  6. This is like doing the hem on a pair of pants.

Loom Hunt Continues

Okay, after hours and hours of research, I’ve come to the following conclusion:

  1. No 10 inch or under looms.
  2. No unfinished looms.

Why? When you weave, the material will pull in and also shrink. So your 10 inch fabric might just end up six inches wide at the end of all that hard work. Such a waste.

Also, the unfinished loom is made of cheap plywood, and is of poor long term quality.

We knitters know how important quality tools are. Don’t be seduced by cheap prices for a dud!

So now I’m thinking of the Kromski Harp.

I’m torn between the 16 inch and the 24 inch. Neither will sit on your lap, and will require resting the back legs on a table. But it is finished, high quality wood, and comes with a warping board. It is also portable — it folds!

See Kromski Harp vs. Schacht Heddle Review for info.

Great guide to rigid heddle looms.

Okay, for sure – don’t want a 10 inch or under, but don’t want a 30 inch or over also.

That leaves the 16 inch and the 24 inch.

Since I want to make garments out of my woven fabric, I think the 24 inch might be the best option for me.

People who recommend the 16 inch take the loom on car trips and airline trips, neither of which I will be doing. I basically want to do the equivalent of knitting, but on a loom, at home, while watching television. Really basic, I know.

Ooh, reading online reviews, the unfinished looms require quite a bit of sanding to work properly. And then staining (which I don’t really know how to do..). Why bother? Get something that works right out of the box.

Maybe the 16 inch.. the 24 is so wide, I will need to get a stand. I think the 16 in would work more easily without a stand. But then again, for garments, a 24 in might be best.. IDK.. !

From an Amazon review:

“In the short time I have been weaving and using all these looms, I’ve come to the conclusion that a 24″ loom is great IF you won’t be moving it very frequently. Also, you will probably have to buy a stand, make a stand, or use a card table (and adjustable chair) to support it. It is a good size in that situation. However, I have hauled both my LeClerc 24″ and folding Ashford 24″ looms to class, and it ends up that we students all have to use dolleys to pull our looms on. Major pain in the butt. Plus we were told that folding with a warped and partially finished project is risky, as the original tension may not be recovered. So I would definitely advise against a 24″ loom if you expect to be folding it and carrying it around.

I never thought I would appreciate a smaller loom, but the time saved warping, the cheaper accessories, and the convenience of carrying are all positives I have discovered.

Bottom line: if you want to weave large items and not sew (piece) something together, go with the 24″. If, however, you prefer to do smaller sections and like experimenting and/or having a more portable loom, go with the 16″.”

Cons of the Kromski Harp Forte 16 inch – terrible assembly instructions, and no beginner weaving instructions.

Hmmm? Advice?