Ina Skirt

Pattern available on Patternreview.com.

I can’t decide what size to get. I often have to grade between different sizes to get waist and hip fitting properly.

SWD

Waist: 33
Hip: 41.5
Length: 40 to floor 35 ankle 28 in below knee

SIZE: XL

KSD

Waist: 34.5
Hip: 48.5
Length: 35 ankle 27 below knee

FINAL CHANGES FOR KSD AFTER TRYING ON:

GARMENT WAIST SIZE: XL – 2 in
GARMENT HIP SIZE: 3XL
GARMENT LENGTH: XL – 7 in for ankle, XL – 12 in (?) for below knee

FINISHED SKIRT FOR KSD:

20180311_172332

NOTE1: With this high of a discrepancy between waist and hip, an elastic is probably necessary. Otherwise you get all these little pleats.

NOTE2: Pattern runs big. Next time, I would not make a 3X, I would make a 2X for KSD.

NOTE3: Where the pattern says “shorten here”, I cut 7 inches. You can see from the picture that it is still a maxi skirt on a 5’4″ tall woman. Further shortening requires shortening the godet, and I am still figuring out how to do that.

NOTE4: This is a VERY forgiving pattern, and such a classic design. In all black, it looks great. I could not tell the difference between the right and wrong side of the fabric, but in the light, it shows, and I don’t think it looks bad. Style, baby! 🙂

SHORTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR NEXT TIME:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?last=1&t=106282&all=8

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/86606/91#1889907

https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=1903055

 

 

Advertisements

Tshirt Neckline Alterations

I was thinking of getting the Jalie 2805 tshirt pattern, but after careful consideration, have decided against it. The fit is a bit wrong.

I wanted the jewel neck to be a bit lower, the henley to be a bit higher. Other sewers said the sleeves are too tight, so I would have to heighten the sleeve, which means messing with the armscye.

If you look at the pattern pictures, there is a weird horizontal and vertical line by the bust. Experts at patternreview.com said this about it:

https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/Topic/106223/

The whole discussion is a fountain of information, check it out!

This pattern was recommended as a “learner” – a basic tshirt with three different ease levels:

https://butterick.mccall.com/b5215

When I get more advanced, here is something to look at:

https://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/the-split-cowl-collar-tutorial.html

https://sewguide.com/draft-necklines/

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/24084109

 

Scrundlewear Alterations

Why did I have to improvise a pattern piece when Scrundlewear is so awesome?

Well, Scrundlewear won’t fit someone curvy. I have measurements for someone with a size L waist but size 2X hips. So what to do? Also this person wanted full butt coverage and a belly button height waist.

Well, I’ll tell you what I did, because it was a huge success. Probably because 1) the pattern itself is awesome; and 2) because I’m super awesome too! 🙂 🙂 🙂

I used the pattern piece for the boyshort 2X, the leg band for boyshort 2X, BUT the waist band for boyshort L. That meant a LOT of easing and a million pins. There are tucks, yes there are, but it still is so comfy and looks so good.

ALSO, you know how the pattern has a higher waist for those who want a foldover waistband? I used that so the panty hits just below the belly button (and I mean a scant 1/4 inch below!)

I also wanted full coverage of the bum area. So I used the pattern style for the boyshort, BUT! – BUT!! – I redrew the lower butt cheek and extended it out another 1.5 inches.

I did NOT interfere with the liner at all (in the redrawing, I started above the liner notch), because I did not wish to bother with redrawing it or the front piece. You’ll understand better when you can see pictures.

I’ll post pictures of my new pattern when I have them in front of me so you can see how I amended the Scrundlewear pattern.

I had to post this right away because I’m so excited! I altered a pattern and it worked!! 🙂 Yay, me!

Scrundlewear FINISHED!!

This is really not a beginner pattern. BUT it is an excellent project for a beginner to learn on. It took me a few days of pattern review, youtube watching, and general confusion, but here is my finished brief::

20180227_123020

Looks great, right! And the fit is very TTS. I thought the pattern looked super bulky and large, but the fit isn’t like that at all.

FYI the brief comes to about two inches below the belly button.

The leg bands still show a LITTLE bit of cheek.

All in all, love love love these, can’t wait to make more! 🙂

And FYI, the material is basically your average tshirt material, so you can use up your old shirts instead of throwing them out or donating them.

The waistband can even be put together from two shorter pieces without feeling uncomfortable. FYI.

I would start this by making a full size pattern piece, one that does not require a fold. Personally I found it easier to cut the fabric out that way. YMMV.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, and I will try to help you out. I’m just a beginner, though, so who knows how helpful I will be. I’ll try, though.

This pattern is amazing, if you are on the fence, just buy it. The brief pattern IMHO fits like a boyshort.

Also do the topstitching it makes a difference to the finished look.

 

Scrundlewear

Just bought the Scrundlewear pattern from the One Stitch Upon a Time Etsy Store.

Two patterns are included: Briefs and Boyshorts. Each pattern has three options: Elastic, Fold Over Elastic, and Knit Waistband (No Elastic). Other reviewers have said that the knit waistband is the most comfortable.

One great thing about the pattern: all pattern pieces are on ONE PAGE. And the seller has set it up so you can print out the lines for just one size. Both the brief and boyshort pattern are on the same page.

Below is for size LARGE:

MATERIALS:

1/2 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for panty] based on 56 in wide fabric
1/4 yard cotton lycra (95/5 min 50% 4 way stretch) [for waistband] based on 56 in wide fabric

CUT waistband: 4 in x 27.5 in = size of waistband

CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 20.75 in = size of leg opening for BRIEF

OR

CUT leg opening x 2: 3 in x 19.75 in = size of leg opening for BOYSHORTS

Direction of stretch goes with the larger measurement

Seam allowance: ½ in (taken into account on pattern)

PIECES TO CUT OUT:

1 front (along fold)
1 back (along fold)
1 liner (along fold)

HOW TO ATTACH THE LINER

  1. Front piece, right side up.
  2. Back piece, right side down. Place exactly on top of front piece in step 1.
  3. Line up side seams. Pin.
  4. Put liner on top of wrong side of back piece. The side with the tapered cut (no flares!) Is the one that is at the bottom.
  5. Your stitch goes where the taper starts. You will stitch a ½ in seam through three layers.
  6. Once that is done, you can sew up the side seams on both sides.
  7. Take the pins out of the crotch and side seams.
  8. Now the liner kind of flops around. SUAT says you could zig zag stitch the end of that floppy side to neaten it if you want. Not sure why, it doesn’t get tucked under to finish or anything.
  9. With the crotch of the pany facing you, and the right side of the liner facing you, run a zig zag stitch from the floppy liner to the one side of the panty. You are just going through the one panty layer here, not two.
  10. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.

WAIST AND LEG BANDS

  1. Sew the ends of the waistband together. Zig zag stitch. Now it’s a big circle. Do the same for the leg bands.
  2. FOLD THE WAIST BAND IN HALF, wrong sides facing.
  3. Pin the waist band to the panty at the front back and two sides. Make sure the fourths are even. Then add more pins to secure. Make sure the pins are positioned so they do NOT have to be removed when sewing (parallel to the waistband, and about an inch inward).
  4. Small zig zag around. You are sewing through the one panty layer (front and back) and two waist band layers (because it is folded in half). This is NOT like with a skirt where you go through one side of the waistband and then do the other separately. Caution!
  5. Top stitch if you like. It’s not really necessary. Done and done.
  6. Do same for leg bands.
  7. Finished!!

 

Kromski Harp Forte Loom Money Pit

Contacted TheSpinnery on Etsy. There is a 25% restocking fee on looms. Plus I have to pay return shipping on the loom box and the stand box.

TheSpinnery said they would waive that if Kromski took the loom back for being defective. Obviously, Kromski did not oblige, they said it was user error.

loom problems (my loom)

Can you see the space between the handle and the loom above? Stupid Kromski said I didn’t push it in enough. But you know what???? That is not possible, as the screw (as you see above!!) goes into the back piece in a PREDRILLED HOLE. All that is to be done is to align it using the “toothpick method” the Kromski woman discussed in the assembly instructions on Kromski’s own website.

ARGH!!!

Stupid Kromski said there is no predrilled hole, so I am mistaken.

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!

They need to watch their own damn videos.

I hate this company, and am beginning to hate this loom. This is IMHO a company that does NOT stand behind its product.

TheSpinnery has been great, but the 25% restocking fee is A LOT IMHO. I understand that both me and her are SOL if Kromski refuses to take back their crappy loom.

ARGH!!

Assembling the Kromski Harp Forte and Stand

Kromski sucks. With what other company can you spend five hundred dollars on a product and get

  1. NO instructions!!!!!! (for the loom)
  2. CRAP instructions!! (for the stand)
  3. No parts inventory, no part function explanation.
  4. Critical parts drilled wrong (I’m following up with TheSpinnery, the Etsy seller I purchased from, to get new parts or just return the loom).
  5. It took me a FULL DAY to assemble the loom and stand. I redid multiple steps multiple times. Today was like the curse of Kromski for me. Because of this, the joy of weaving is dying. DYING.

VERDICT:

  1. The 24 in Kromski is huge. I should have gotten the 16 inch, if I got one at all. The one in the videos by Kromski for the “how to assemble” as well as the ones in the instruction manual are 16 inch. Seeing the product in front of me, 24 inch is too large, 16 inch is good enough for clothing, scarves, shawls, and would also be portable if you’re into that.
  2. The Cricket or SampleIt would have been easier to warp and SO MUCH MORE FUN to use. The panels would have to be sewn together if you want to make fabric with that, though. BUT those can be used in your lap while watching television.  Great for those of us who don’t want to sit in the corner by ourselves and weave, and want to use it to be a bit social and still get stuff done.
  3. Based on my personal experience, I do not recommend Kromski. The loom is rickety and poorly made, not attractive, and really a big ugly eyesore that will sit in your home forever and ever taking up space. A LOT of space. It is NOT feasible to fold the weaving away or store it in a corner when not in use. When people say the loom is portable, DO NOT expect that functionality. Also, the stand is so sucky that it does not adjust the way it is supposed to, and nothing tightens – the feet still move around. It’s just not STABLE.
  4. Sorry to offend any Kromski fans. This is just one opinion from a very VERY frustrated person who has spent ALL !??! DAY assembling one loom and stand.
  5. If you have to give up knitting and crochet because of joint pain, weaving might not be for you. The motion (especially for the large 24 inch loom I purchased) to move the shuttle back and forth is painful for the arms (I’ve had surgery on my shoulder). I couldn’t imagine using this for a longer period of time. Take a class or something before you just jump in and buy a loom like I did. Learn from my mistake.
  6. Again, this is just a review based on my opinion and personal circumstances. YMMV.